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Virginia!

Saturday, June 26th, 2010

After starting my journey on May 28 from Springer Moutain in Georgia, I’ve finished the 1st quarter of my AT thru-hike.  In 27 days of actual hiking, I’ve covered 463 hard miles, averaging 17.2 miles per day, with 2 zero days.  If it were not for the unscheduled zero day after that first week due to the infected toes, I’d be right on schedule.  Today, I’m taking an unplanned zero day here at the Lazy Fox Inn in Damascus, Virginia.  My feet are sore, I’m tired, and my big concern is that I’ve lost way too much weight–about 28 lbs!   I weighed a trim 184 when I left, and was shocked to weigh in at a paltry 156 last night.  It’s been exceptionally hot for here, even up in the mountains, and very humid.  I have a very high metabolism rate, and could always eat alot and not gain weight.  Over the past few weeks though, it’s catching up with me, burning a ton of calories and not being able to eat enough.  I felt my normal strength begin to fade yesterday particularly with the uphill climbs.  And you know it’s bad when my wedding ring of almost 30 years falls off my skinny little fingers!

My first helping at Mt. Harbour breakfast!

My good friend Steve and I enjoyed the

Hey Steve--get a little closer to that snake!

best breakfast of our lives four days ago as we left Mountain Harbour B&B and Hostel.  Mary, our host, outdid herself, with a spread right out of Southern Living.  It was awsome, as we enjoyed a great breakfast in her home with about 12 of our new trail friends.  We were refreshed heading back uphill into the mountains, the Kincora Hiking Hostell.  We were slackpacking 24.4 miles that day, and it began to get very hot.  Even without the heavy regular pack, it was a long, hard day, with many hard climbs, dips, and climbs again.  Steve walked right over a 5′ black snake that day right on the trail–didn’t even see it till I told him he’d just walked over a big snake.  Then he jumped after the fact.  Have heard of several hikers seeing rattlesnakes, but to our knowledge, have not passed one by.  If Steve can’t even see a 5′ black snake though right in the trail, I’ll bet we’ve walked by several rattlers without even knowing it.

We rolled into Kincora at about 6:15, and met the legendary Bob Peoples, along with Seiko.  Bob had operated Kinora Hiking Hostel for many years for hikers, all for a small donation.  He does it out of a love for the mountains.  Bob and Seiko are both experts on the AT, having thru-hiked it many times over the years.  After driving us into town for Arbys and re-supply, we had a decent night of sleep and left early for a hard trip up past Laurell Falls, Pond Flats,  down to Lake Watouga, and then up to our next shelter.     

Laurell Falls

It was very hot as we got to the lake at about 1:00, where there was a nice swimming beach.  We stripped to our shorts and swam in the cool water, which was so refreashing after a hard morning of hiking.  As you would expect, a nice local named Jack recognized us as hikers, and gave us both a cold Pepsi, which really hit the spot.  We visited with Jack for awhile, and rested about two hours, before gearing back up and heading back up.  It was hotter still in the afternoon.  We hiked up and along the lake all afternoon, before coming to our last gap, which was about 3 miles from our shelter.  We were out of water, and it would be awhile before the next spring.  So, we rested in the shade, before a car came up the little lake road.  Waving down the car asking for water, a nice young man named Jeremy did even better, giving us two cold cokes.  Two pops in one day–just when we needed them!  That gave us just enough of a boost for the 1,000′ climp up to our destination.   We finally reached the spring, about .9 miles down from the shelter at about 6:45.  We were tired, so decided to just camp there in the woods for the night.

I slept in my Henley Hammock, but Steve had to lay his pad and bag on the ground.   I was awakened in the middle of the night with Steve shining his flashlight, throwing rocks, and yelling at a racoon.  Seems that a racoon rules that little gap, pouncing on hikers leaving their food and gear out.  The racoon was trying to get into Steve’s pack first, and after scaring it away, he starts dragging my pack down the trail later on.  He even was up in the tree trying to get our food sacks, which were tied high away from bears.  He was not afraid of Steve and his holloring and rocks, until he nailed it in the head with a rock.  He then decided to move on.  The rest of the night, every stick or sound from the forrest, Steve was sure it was a bear coming to step on him.  I had in fact seen my third bear earlier about two miles back on the trail.  As usuall, he ran uphill and disappeared in a hurry as soon as he saw us.

It was meant to be!

The next day we awoke to a breeze and cooler weather, which was nice for hiking.  We had alot of uphills, with the usuall gaps, dips, and curves.  Hiking mainly along the tops of ridges, we could still see the large lake we swam in the previous day, from about 2,000′ up on the ridge.  We passed, and then were later passed, by Al from Rochester, NY, Bill and his 12 year-old daughter, Lexie from Madison WS.  We all enjoyed some trail magic again at just the right time in the late afternoon, with a metal box full of snacks, Cokes, and Dr. Pepper along the trail, provided by the local Baptist Church.  See… Baptists aren’t so bad after all!   Again regenerated, we suddenly were out of the woods and hiked in a rare clearing of less than a mile.  This was a very nice section, with gentle slopes, which is actually a handicapped section of the AT.  We all arrived at Double Springs Shelter at about the same time,  just before a little thinderstorm hit.  After some good conversation and dinner of freeze-dried mexican rice and lasagne, we hit the sack. 

The rare Grays Lilly. The only place it grows in the world is on the balds of the southern Appalachians.

Steve and I wake up and left on the trail before the sun even came up the next day, as we wanted to take advantage of the slightly cooler morning weather, and get the 18 miles to Damascus, VA in time to get checked in, eat a good late lunch, do laundry, take a shower, and all the other necessecites after 3-4 days on the trail.  It became very hot in the afternoon, especially dropping down into Damascus below 2,000′ .  Out of water, soaking in sweat, dog tired (sounding familiar?), I had to use the garden hose from the first little house on the AT as it came into town.  Probably not the first time that hose has quenched a thirsty hiker.  Damascus is a hiker town, with the AT going right through it.  Trail Days is held here in May, with thousands of past and current hikers, along with vendors and friends of the trail, converging for a few days of celebration. 

We limped into the Mt. Rogers Outfitters first to check on accomodations.  Phil had an in with Ms. Ginny at the Lazy Fox Inn, so we were fortunate to get the only good room that night.  I was about “hostelled-out”, and wanted a real bed, with a good shower, air conditioning, and a good breakfast….and no spiders.  After scarfing down pizza and a cheeseburger at 3;30, we claened up, got our chores done, and went to have dinner a few hours later, throwing down a big steak.  After weighing myself, and looking at myself in the mirror, I was shocked as to how thin I’d become, so I was determined to gain some weight back by eating like crazy.  Hikers are know for their gargantuous appetites after hiking the AT for a long time eating granola bars, oatmeal, and freeze-dried food, so I was not going to disappoint. 

After a fair night of sleep in a real bed, Steve was off to Tulsa, getting a ride back to Erwin, TN for his car, and then the long drive to Tulsa.  Doesn’t seem fair–him being able to take one day to drive 750 miles or so to Tulsa, and I take a month to walk 463 miles! 

Typical flowers on a southern Appalachian bald.

On this zero day, I’ve had another great breakfast, sharing it with two nice young families from Florida–Karl & Megan and Shannon & Corne’.  I ate and ate, while they watched me devour plate after plate of breakfast goodies Ms. Ginny had fixed.  While sitting on the shady front porch in the cool of the morning enjoying a rare cup of coffee, I thought again as to how fortunate I am to be able to thru-hike the AT.  Things are going just fine at work it seems, even without my presence there this summer.  Quite frankly, LawnAmerica is one of the best lawncare companies of our type anywhere in the country.  The fact that the owner can take an adventure of this magnitude for what looks like five months, in the economy we are in, and still grow 14%, with decent profits, and customer service ratings that are off the charts, speaks highly of our staff, and how God has blessed our business.  

I’m thankful that I can physically do this.  It’s been a big challenge.  There is a reason that 25% don’t even make it out of Georgia.  I think sometimes of the kids at the Little Lighthouse, one of the charities we are supporting.   For some, it’s a challenge to walk around the block.  I’ll do it for them.  I think of the people who struggle to find shelter, as I do sometimes on the trail.  The Salvation Army shows compassion to them.  I think of the families in Tulsa and everywhere who don’t live in decent housing as most of us do.  Habitat for Humanity shows compassion to them, by providing to as many as possible.  The teenagers at Tulsa Rogers have many challenges that we didn’t have in the class of 1972.  Those kids need compassion, and Young Life does it well by getting into the lives of teenagers.  And, the families of our brave soldiers who have paid the ultimate price, by giving their lives for our country in battle–they need compassion for sure.  Folds of Honor, a fairly new charity,  based right out of the Tulsa area, provides compassioin to those kids and families who have lost their Dad or Mom.  Believe me–with our oldest son Jake serving now in the US Marines in southern Afgahistan, and our youngest son Luke on his way to be a Marine office–those soldiers and their families are on my mind as I walk the trail.

I’ve completed the 1st quarter, and I feel good about what I’ve accomplished so far.  I could not have done it if it were not for others.  We are currently at about $62,000 towards our goal of $100,00.  We’re doing great, but we need folks to donate.  I expect to surpass the goal, before I complete this journey. 

My weight loss is a concern, so I have decided to adjust my schedule to finish this.  Originally, I had a plan to finish in Maine at Mt. Katahdin on Oct. 1st, going about 18 miles per day.  My plan was detailed, but as with any plan, we have to adjust according to the circumstances and unforseen stuff that happens.  After listenting to wise people along the trail, some who have hiked it many times, I’ve decided to do what’s called a flip flop.  I’ll push on through Virgininia for another 549 miles to Harper’s Ferry, the symbolic halfway point on the AT.  I’ll slow it down to about 16.3 miles per day, and take a few more zero days to rest and rejuvinate.  After all, even God just worked 6 days, and then rested on the 7th.  I’ll try hiking for about 9 and resting on the 10th.  In very early August after reaching Harpers Ferry, I’ll fly home for a week of rest, check on my business, see my familiy, and hopefully see our new grandaughters born while I’m home.  I’ll then fly to Maine, climb Mt. Katahdin, and become a SOBO (southbounder) down to Harpers Ferry.  With this, I’ll enjoy much better weather, escape the mosquito season in the mid-atlantic, avoid the lack of water in Pennsylvania during the summer, and be able to take more time to enjoy the AT.  While most people do go north ending at Katahdin, some do go south the total time, and some do a flip-flop.  It works for me at this point.

Hey, I’ve proven to myself and to a few pundits that I can do this–going faster and farther than probably 95% of the people who even try to hike the AT.  Nobody has passed me.  Since I started so late, most people recommended I do a flip-flop to insure I can complete the whole trail.  I’ll meet many NOBOS on my way down in August and September.   Part of this adventure, or for that matter, everything in life, is to enjoy it.  When life, or hiking the AT, becomes more of a stamina contest and drudgery, then changes need to be made.   Life is hard.  Business is hard.  Even things like being a Dad or a Husband can be hard at times.  It should also be fun though, and most often is for me.  The AT is defiinatelly hard, but I want it to be more fun.  So, I’ll slow it down, be able to take more time to visit with even more people, do more things, enjoy the towns I pass, and even take my fishing pole up in Maine and New England so I can catch my own trout dinners along the AT.  That will put some meat back on my bones!

So after a good zero day here in Damascus, I’m ready to hit the trail again tomorrow.  Phil from Mt. Rogers Outfitters did a great job of helping me with my aching feet and boot problem.  I bought my fourth pair of boots, with a new pair of inserts, and new socks.  He showed me how to better lace up my boots, and he fixed my broken zipper on my pack.  I had to buy a new shirt, as I’m down to a medium shirt now instead of a large.  I need to start doing pushups every day or chinups from a tree branch I guess, as my upper body gets no excercise.  It’s all in the legs an my rump, along with a strong back. 

On the porch at the Lazy Fox before Steve heads home.

I’ll have my Virgina Tech hat on for the next month, as I travel northeast.  I do appreciate the comments, encouragement, and prayers that are referrenced to on my blog.  I don’t have time or good enough internet connections to respond to each one, but I do read them.  They are encouraging, and help me to persevere. 

Phillipians 4:13

The Compassionater

Posted in AT2010, Appalachian Trail, Charity, Lawn America | 3 Comments »

New Wheels

Monday, June 14th, 2010

After taking an unplanned off day in Franklin, NC, my trail angel Rich was waiting for me in his big red Dodge Durango at 6:30 early in the morning.  My toes and feet felt better, but were still hurting somewhat.  It was a beautiful morning in the Appalachians, driving up to Winding Stair Gap.  Rich had taken my backpack over to my final destination for the day, the Nantahala Outdoor Center, which was 28 miles away by the trail.  With just a day-pack on, my load would be lessened, but that’s still a full day of hiking up and down the AT mountains.

tulsa charity appalachian trail at2010

As I geared up, Rich said, “Brad, I just feel led to pray for you and your journey.”  Wow, I thought, even more confirmation that this is what I should be doing.  “I’d be honored to be the recipient of your prayers Rich,” I told him.  So as I grabbed the big hand of my new friend Rich, as he prayed for me, my journey, and my toes.

As we said goodbye, I told him I’d send him a postcard from Mt. Katahdin in Maine in a few months, I literally glided over the trail for that first few miles.  I was rejuvenated.  Most people call it trail magic, and sometimes it is  just that.  But this was more than that.  It was the Holy Spirit, leading me to a godly, spirit-led man to help a tired traveler who is on a compassionate journey.

The trail was the same hills, gaps, ridge lines, often in the dense forest.  At around noon, out in the middle of the forest, I came upon a guy in overalls, out digging in the forest right off the trail.  His name was Charlie, and he was out digging for ramps.  “What are ramps?’ I asked.  With a twinkle in his eye, he described them as like wild onions, and they grow out in this area of the forest.  “Once you eat ramps, you just can’t get enough of them,” Charlie said.

Sounds a little fishy to me.  For an ol’ guy to be out digging through the forest on a Saturday, these ramps must either be really good,  have some kind of medicinal effect, or make one a little loopy.   Charlie told me he was from down yonder, and we parted company after our brief visit.  I need to check these ramp deals out, I thought to myself.

I saw mainly section and day hikers again.  I’ve only passed a few thru-hikers, since most are way out on the trail, or back home having quit the trail.  At about 4:00 or so, my feet were getting sore again, along with getting tired.  Most of my climbing was done, so the last several miles consisted of mainly dropping down about 3,500′ to the Nantahala River valley.  At about 7:00, I finally rolled into the office to get my bunk at the hostel, only to discover they were all filled, even after being told there would be plenty of room.   I was tired, drenched in sweat, hungry, and not a happy camper.

I trudged uphill to where the hostel and campground was and found a shower to use.  Putting on half-dirty clothes, I wandered around looking for somewhere to stay.  A nice group of people from an outdoor club in Indiana told me I could just lay down my bag in the dinning hall and sleep there.  They also asked if I’d like a home-cooked meal, since they had plenty.  “Sure”, I told them, and enjoyed brats along with good conversation with these folks.

After sorting through my dirty stuff and getting my pad and bag ready, I went down to the restaurant on the river and devoured a large pizza, three glasses of pop, and a dessert.  My second dinner of the evening did fill me up.  After loosing ten pounds just during my first week of the trail, I needed to eat as much as I could to prevent further weight loss.  This trail burns so much energy, that you have to take in a bunch of food.   That’s not such a bad thing.

I actually thought about doing another long slack pack day in order to get back on schedule, but I’m glad I didn’t.   The climb out of the Nantahala valley was brutal, going mainly up about 3,600′, with many ups and downs along the way.  The trail was rocky in places.  It rained most of that morning, so my boots and feet were soaked again, leading to more foot problems.  At about 5:00, I made it down to a highway crossing at a gap, where I visited with three other thru-hikers I was getting ready to pass.  They gave me some water, as I was getting low.  The rains had stopped, so I worked on my feet by cleaning them and putting on more moleskin and bandages, vaseline, and put on my last pair of dry socks.  As I crossed the road and head up into the forest, more trail magic–about six cans of Mountain Dew lined up 25′ apart up the trail. I quickly gulped one, giving me a little boost going up to my campsite 2.5 miles up the mountain.

The Trail Magic quickly disappeared, as it began to rain again, very hard.  I trudged up in the rain to Brown Fork Gap shelter, and the rains quit.  I had the shelter to myself, and after a good dinner of freeze dried something, I had a good night’s sleep in my hammock strung out in the shelter.

I had a lighter day, just needing about 12 miles going mainly down to the Fontana Dam valley.  Although the map showed mainly downhill, an the Appalachian Trail, especially in this early section, one always is going either up or down it seems.  It was a rough trail in places.  I made a good climb to Mt. Elbert, where an old fire tower stood on the peak.  I was above the clouds settling in the valleys below, so I did not have a good view this morning.

As I made it down to the Fontana Lake area, it was getting hot, and I was dirty, tired, and hungry–the normal state for an afternoon hiker.  I again discovered that there was no room in the inn where I was to stay, so I had to make adjustments on the run.  I made it to the Fontana Dam visitors center, where I engulfed a Klondike bar and a coke, made a call to the Fontana Village Hotel up the road, and snagged a free ride the three miles up to it.  It was more than I wanted to spend on a room, but I was desperate for a good bed, hot shower, good meal, and some rest.

During the afternoon, I did my laundry again, went swimming at the pool, and felt rejuvenated.  I visited with three section hikers briefly at dinner, where I again scarfed down about $25 worth of food.  It was a good evening, and after a great breakfast in the morning, caught a ride back down to the dam where I left off yesterday.

“What’s this, I’m walking on level ground?”, I thought as I walked the 500′ or so across Fontana Dam, which is the largest dam east of the Mississippi.  This was the longest stretch of level ground I had walked on, and it felt good.  My three buddies I met last night were gearing up, so we took some pictures of each other, and I head up the road and then the trail with them.  This was the southern entrance to the Smokey Mountain National Park, where I would be the next four day.

These guys were about my age, with one of them about ten years younger it appeared.  He was the leader, and looked more fit than the other two.  I walked at a slower pace, so I could visit with them a little more as I hiked up the trail.  One of them was already lagging behind, as his backpack was way too heavy–about 50 lbs I believe.   They were going on a nine day trip, I believe on past the Smokies.  He had all nine days of food in his pack.

I felt sorry for the guy, because I knew he was not going to make it.  They were already talking about taking some of his gear and food, and they were not even a mile into it.  Since I had about 17 miles to go that day, mainly uphill, I parted ways and speed on up the trail.

About a mile into the park, as I turned the corner, I saw my first black bear.  It was just about 80′ or so up, and when he saw me, took off up into the woods.  I couldn’t get to my camera fast enough for a picture.  Later in the day, I twice heard a bear up in the woods snorting and moving through the brush, and it was perfect bear habitat, with hollow out trees everywhere.  I had my camera in my hand this time, ready to shoot pics, but they never appeared.

In the early afternoon, I came up to a young couple out on a section hike.  It’s always great to see and visit with people along the trail, especially if you’re hiking solo as I am.  After going hours of nothing but the woods, you really like to visit with people, if only for a minute.  They were heading for the same shelter that evening, Spence Shelter, about 8 miles or so up the trail.  After saying good-by, I bounced up the trail.  About 15 seconds later, Amy hollered out, “Hey Brad, I think you should be going this way!”  I was so distracted after our conversation, I was actually going back south, the direction I came from.  “OK Jeremiah, you’re not so smart after all”, I thought to myself.  I sheepishly told her thanks, we had a laugh, and told her I would have caught myself eventually.  Yea right, probably  when I met up with my three buddies coming up the trail again.

I actually did that again, when crossing under I-40 along a small gravel road.   This time, I crossed over the same river bridge, thinking to myself, “Didn’t I just cross this river?”  It sounds crazy, but it’s easy to do.  In the woods, you can’t see the sun to get your direction.  There are few signs that say north or south, just some white blazes about every 100′.  The AT seldom goes north and south, but instead zigs every which way.  At crossings, after becoming distracted, and after coming up from a stream for water or a stop, it’s very easy to become confused as to which way you were going.  I’ve tried to stop and place my hiking sticks pointing north every time I stop just to make sure.

That night I shared the Shelter with about 15 other people from all over.  No thru-hikers, just section hikers, including Jimmy and Amy, who made it up just at dark several hours after I had.  It was a big shelter, with two layers.  That night, I woke many times to a concerto of snorers, some from the bottom part, and others from the balcony.  That’s one reason I don’t really like to stay at shelters.  They were all nice people to visit with and had a good evening.

The Great Smokies

The next morning was nice, and had great views as I topped Thunderhead and Rocky Top Mountains.  After that, the rains came again, and got soaked.  After a day of fairly nice hiking, with good trail conditions and smoother gradients, the hiking became more rocky and treacherous.  The rains make it much tougher.  It rained so hard that the trail often became a creek you were walking in.  I made it up to about 11 miles from Newfoudland Gap, sharing a shelter with two young college students, Brad and Lebron.  At dark, some older guy came trudging in huffing and puffing, with a backpack that looked as big as a bus, and stayed at the shelter with us, tossing and turning all night.  My destination for the next day was Gatlinburg, where I would take a shorter day, hitch a ride into town for a shower, good food, rest, and re-supply.

A nice couple from Louisiana gave me a ride down to Gatlinburg the next day at around noon.  I had gotten an early start and made good time, even though the trail was still wet and muddy from rains the previous night.  They dropped me off and I found the Microtel down the street.    After showering, washing my clothes in the bathtub, and eating a good lunch, I checked about my shuttle back to the trail-head and the logistics of getting my pack to my next stop–Davenport Gap, which was 31.6 miles up the trail.

I bought a new pair of socks, some other supplies, and checked into some new boots, thinking that may be the difference.  I had heard on the trail that your feet swell up while hiking large distances, and sure enough that seemed to be a problem.  While I normally wear 11.5 boots, I tried on some Keen size 12, and they felt great.  New wheels!  I could not feel the heel blister or toe pain that had burdened me from the start.  So I purchased new boots, and shipped my old ones, along with the old Merrills from home  Becky had sent me, back home.

I couldn’t find a good internet connection in Gatlinburg, but did manage to get some rest and get ready for my next big day.  A 31.6 mile slack pack, taking me out of the Smokey Mountain National Park, would be a challenge. My shuttle guy, Bob from Smokey Mountain Outfitters, Picked me up and had me back on the trail-head at Newfoundland Gap by 7:00 or so.  The weather was great, and for the first time since I started, my new wheels were working great with no toe or heel pain.  There were some climbs, followed by descents, and more climbs.  The views were awesome, as the trail mainly followed the ridge line.  I was making great time.  I also had  a new I-pod my son had loaded and sent to me.  Listening to music, books, and messages really helped the hike go better, and helped me deal with the loneliness one feels at times along the trail.

By early afternoon, my rejuvenation about my boots began to subside.  Now, I was getting blisters in places I’ve never had blisters before, on the balls of my feet, on toes, and especially at the bottom base of my big toe.  It began to hurt with every step, and it was a very long hard day of hiking.  My shuttle was to pick me up at the bottom of Davenport Gap between 7:30 & 8:00.  I rolled into Davenport at 7:25, and she had just gotten there waiting on me to take me a few miles up to Standing Bear Farm Hostel for the evening.

At Standing Bear, they sell food, supplies, you get a bunk and a hot shower, all for a reasonable price.  I was starved, so heated up a can of chili to eat while my pizza was cooking.  Along with three cans of pop and a Gatorade, I finally felt full.  Curtis, the owner of Standing Bear took me back to where I left off the previous day, with my full backpack again, and I journeyed up to my next destination, Max Patch Bald.  I didn’t get on the trail till about 9:30, so had to hike hard to make it the 16.9 miles or so up to Max Patch.

Should I hitch hike home? No way!

The trail went down for about a mile before crossing under I40 (where I got goofed up and went the wrong way briefly).  As I climbed up from the valley, the roar of cars and trucks slowly disappeared over the next hour, giving way to the stillness of the forest.  This day consisted of more up than down, but the trail seemed to be getting in a little better shape.  No rain on this day.

Along the trail I’ve seen several wild turkeys.  They would just run away or eventually fly off. I came upon one today that was just 30′ or so up the trail, and running around all scared or something. I got my camera out to get a good picture of it, when all of a sudden she took off flying right towards my head, with her ugly claws out dive bombing with her beak. I tried to whack it with my hiking poles, dropped my camera, and fell backwards on my rear. Dropped by a wild turkey on the AT. That’s okay, I’ll get my revenge this thanksgiving!

I made it up to Max Patch at about 6:30, and the view was awesome.  Max Patch is a large area of grassland and wildflowers with unobstructed views for miles.  Last week, a young lady had been struck by lightning up at Max Patch.  One does not want to cross it during a storm.  I spoke with two good guys from Tennessee that had hiked up from their car.  After our visit, I headed down to my campsite just into the trees along the edge of the clearing.

View from Max Patch Bald

I didn’t sleep too well that night in my hammock for some reason.  It was foggy the next morning, and I heard thunder in the distance,  So I quickly ate a cold breakfast, packed up, and headed down the trail.  My iPhone and iPod had lost all power after one day, so I didn’t know what time it was, and had nothing but the forest to listen to.  It  was a tough day, and my feet were getting worse in these new places.  About two miles from the end, I began to hear and now see Hot Springs, NC.  It seemed it took forever to finally reach the town in the valley below.  With the next day being my first planned zero day, where I relax and don’t hike any, I was really looking forward to getting to Hot Springs.

It was hot as I reached the town.  Hot Springs is the first town where the AT actually goes through the middle of.  It’s a small North Carolina town, with a few hostels, restaurants, and a great little outfitter store named Bluff Mountain Outfitters.  I had climbed Bluff Mountain that day, and it was a tough one.  I was soaked in sweat, tired, hungry….you know the drill.  I went into Smokey Mountain Diner and scarfed down a double cheeseburger, fries, and two cokes.  They had to tell me where Elmer’s Sunneybrook Inn was, my home for the next two nights.  There wasn’t a sign or anything in front, but it was right across the street.

I secured my room, took a hot shower, soaked my tired feet in the tub, and walked gingerly in my sandals the two blocks up the street to eat dinner again at about 7:15.  Another $30 worth of food, but I did get full.  Took another shower just to get all the grunge off, and had a good nights sleep in a real bed.

The next morning, Elmer fixed a great breakfast, as he’d done for thousands of hikers over the years.   There were two section hikers, minesweeper and roundabout, that I enjoyed visiting with.  They were heading to Erwin, TN also, my next destination, so I’ll pass them in a few days on my way on up the trail.  Nobody has passed me in the 17 days or so I’ve been on the AT.  I’ve passed probably about 100 section, day, and a few thru-hikers, along with the thousand or so thru-hikes who have already quit and are back home on the couch.  I’d like to meet up with someone good who’s walking at my pace on up the trail, but most seem to be doing maybe 10 miles or so per day, and or taking off alot of day.  Wish I could, but with starting so late, in order to make it to Katahdin by Oct. 1st–I gotta go hard.

I walked up to do laundry, and thought I’d check again at the outfitters for new boots.  I was desperate to get my wheels back, as that’s the only thing that’s slowing me down.  I had read some reviews last night in Backpacker Magazine on boots, and one that was rated high, was on their shelf.  It’s more of a high cut running or trail shoe, with good padding and flexibility.  I tried on a size 13 this time, and added a special insole.  They felt great, as by Keen boots did in the store a few days ago.  My mistake though was keeping the standard insole in the Keens, and shipping my special insole back to Tulsa.  That would have made a difference.  I bought the new boots, and shipped back my Gattlinburg boots with three days of hard hiking, covering 64 miles in those three day.  Maybe that’s why my feet hurt so much?  I’ll blame it on the boots though.

Hot Springs, North Carolina

So I’m on my 3rd set of wheels!  I gota get these wheels fixed, to where I can hike and not feel the pain of every step.  Without a good, strong base–you’re sunk, either in hiking, and in life for that matter.  With rest today, a good soaking in the natural hot springs later, more great food, and another good nights sleep, I’ll be ready to charge up the mountains again.  I have four days to get to Erwin, TN, where my good buddy of over 30 years, Steve Hildebrand, will be joining up and hiking a week with me.  I’ve warned him that he’d better be in shape, as the AT is very tough.  He’s no spring chicken either like me, so the trail will work him over for a few days.  We’re trying to go a little easier at first, with some lighter days and some slack packing also.  And I hope he has his boot issue resolved.  It’s taken me almost three weeks and three sets of boots, and I’m still not sure if I’ve got the right wheels yet!

Even with the challenges of the AT, and hurting feet, I wouldn’t have it any other way.  Nothing great was ever achieved without some sacrifice, and without some pain along the way.  I know that God will use this little journey of mine–this compassionate jouney–to help others.  The kids and families which are served by our five charities I know will be helped and shown compassion.  I’ve already thought many times (you do have alot of thinking time on the AT), that this would be really difficult if I was just doing this for me, and wasn’t doing this for others also.  People along the trail have asked why I’m pushing so hard to make it to Maine, and why I don’t just do a flip flop hike and go to Katahdin and hike south to where you ended up.  That thought has crept into my mind also, during some of those difficult stretches.

But my hope is that my new wheels will do the job, and allow my feet to heal up and get better.  I’m pressing on the Erwin, looking forward to having a good friend as my trailmate.

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Posted in AT2010, Appalachian Trail, Charity, Tulsa Charity | 5 Comments »

The Trail of Toes

Friday, June 4th, 2010

Views from the top of Blood Mountain were awesome. This is close to where the Trail of Tears began.

I was all set to do a 28 mile slack pack today from Franklin NC over to the Nantahila Outdoor Center in order to stay on schedule. My toes, of all things, were not going to allow me to get there. Of all things to set me back—a couple of dang infected toes. It seems my great idea of having two insoles instead of one to help cushion my feet backfired, causing my toes and foot to be jammed into my boots. Sometimes more doesn’t necessarily mean better I guess, in life, and with your insoles! So with the pounding my feet and toes were taking, along with walking in the rain and mud all day, two toes became infected, on top of blisters forming, I decided yesterday to adjust my schedule. I could take a short 11 mile day hiking into Franklin, catch a ride into town, get some rest and medicine, eat a buch, and make it up by slack packing the next day.

Soaking my feet in a cold, mountain stream.

Slack packing is having someone take your pack to the next stop, allowing you to take just a light day pack, allowing one to cover much more ground with much less agony. I met a couple of guys from Alabama, who were also having foot problems on the way down the trail. They needed to get a ride to Nantahila, where I needed my pack to get to the next day, so Trail Magic worked again. We met up with a nice Trail Angel named Rich, a Prudential Real Estate agent from Franklin. He gladly drove all three of us the ten miles into Franklin, took me to the Microtell, I took what I needed just for the next day, giving them my packpack to be delivered to my destination the next day. Rich took them over the 45 minute drive around to Nantahila, and everyone was set.

After scarfing down $10 worth of food at Sonic and taking a quick shower, I stocked up with stuff from the drug store and soaked my aching feet and toes in epson salts. After calling my doc from Tulsa, I relegated myself to going to the local clinic to have them look at my feet and prescribe some anti-biotics for my toes. The local doc was not too impressed with my feet. After loosing three toenails during training due to short boots, I’m loosing two more, which became infected due to the dirty conditions of backpacking and walking all day. She did prescribe some medicine, and told me to take off two days before setting out again for the trail. I was disappointed, and frustrated that something as little as two toes was setting me back. Being the typical macho guy, I wasn’t about to take her advice, but I did feel it would be wise to take one day off, rest up, eat up (I’ve lost 10 pounds so far), and get my wheels back in action.

They say how it is on the AT!

So here we are, in nice little Franklin, NC. It’s a nice little town, surrounded by the Smokey Mountains, with lots of great places to eat. If one wants to loose weight, I have the perfect new diet plan that’s guaranteed to work, and I won’t even charge you for it! It’s called the AT plan—go backpack the AT starting in the Georgia mountains, going about 16 miles per day for one week, and you will loose weight. Food will be my friend for the next four months, not only on the trail, but especially when I take these “rest stops” at little hotels or hostels every four days or so. Originally I was planning on about every four days. I think I may change that to three from now on. At this rate, at ten pounds per week, I’ll shrivel up to nothing before I reach New York!

Even though my toes and feet have been hurting, I’m still having a great time. The rest of my parts are working just fine. Once I get my wheels back, I’ll get back on schedule. The landscape continues to be much of the same—lots and lots of dense forest, trees, colorful shrubs, and brief panoramic views at the top of mountains when you may have a brief clearing. I continue to meet lots of mainly section and day hikers. Even some of them are changing their plans and shortening their hikes, as my two friends from Alabama. I’ve gone past hundreds of thru-hikes who have already quit their hikes before they even reached where I am today. Nobody has passed me on the trail. At my rate, I’m blowing by them. I wish I could go slower and enjoy the sites and interesting places more, but my four month schedule is limited.

Switching hats as I cross from Georgia to North Carolina

I had a trail buddy named The Silver Fox a few days ago, who was an attorney from south Texas on a brief sabbatical from his job. It was nice having someone to talk with as we hiked through the woods. He, as most people, walked at a slower pace, which was good for me, as I only had about 12 miles scheduled for that day anyway. As we crossed over the Georgia line (actually just a little old sign in the woods) into North Carolina, I put my Georgia Bulldog hat into my pack, and put on my North Carolina Tarheel hat. It felt good to be out of Georgia. A mile or so up the trail, The Silver Fox wanted to take a break at Bly Gap, while I went ahead the two miles or so to our destination for the night, Muskrat Creek Shelter. The trail was steeper than what the map indicated, which I’ve found is often the case. The Silver Fox never made it up there that night, so I’ll won’t see him again on the AT, as he was just going to somewhere in North Carolina before heading home.

Home, sweet home.

Hikers have to hang their food up in a bog on bear cables, or throw a rope over a high branch about 20” up in the air to prevent you food from being devoured by a hungry bear in the middle of the night. That night was my first, and only night to actually sleep in a shelter. There really was no need to hang my food up high though, as the lady two places down from me in the shelter was snoring so loud that I’m sure she scared away every living thing within a quarter of a mile. I shared the shelter with four others that night—all interesting people from all over. I didn’t sleep very well though. I seem to do better in my Henley Hammock, hung between two trees. There are lot’s of trees to choose from here, so I can actaully make camp about anywhere I want. The next night after a nice and moderate 16 mile hike, I slept pretty soundly in my cozy little hammock in the woods.

Mr. Bear left his calling card right in the middle of the trail!

It continue to amaze me how the builders of the AT thought, “Hey there’s a mountain, let’s shoot the trail right up that, down the other side, and then there’s another mountain over there. Let’s zig the trail over there to go up that one also!” That’s what kills people on the AT here in Georgia on on into North Carolina and Tennessee. On days that I go 28 miles, like I’ll do tomorrow, you also have to add another two miles of vertical up and down. More up it seems.

But that’s OK. That’s why they call them mountains, and that’s why they are beautiful, and challenging. I must admit though, that I’ll be glad to see the Virginia highlands in a few weeks.

I’m enjoying my unschedules zero day, catching up on a lot of things. My Trail Angel, Rich, will pick me up here at the Micro-tel at 6:30 in the morning to take me the 10 miles up to Winding Stair Gap, where I left the AT yesterday. It will be off into the woods again, but without a heavy backpack on. I anticipate my feet and toes will be working well again as I head up and over the moutains into Nantahila Gap. After that, a few moderate days, and I’m into the Smokey Mountain National Park.

Morning light shooting through the forest.

Happy Toes and Happy Trails!

Posted in Appalachian Trail | 13 Comments »

I’m Not Too Smart, but I am Staying at a Holiday Inn Express Tonight!

Tuesday, June 1st, 2010

After four grueling days of hiking the AT, I’m sitting in Hiawasse, Georgia at the Holiday Inn Express. The hot tub, hot shower, all you can eat buffet, and a nice real bed is just what I need to recover. I’m on schedule having covered 68 miles the first four days which is pretty aggressive right out of the box. Most of the locals don’t think I’ll make it starting this late. Whatever.

Before I left, I was having trouble finding a special Bible verse that would be my ‘AT Promise’. As I pulled up the next card on my desk, there it was – Psalm 48:14 – “For this God is our God for ever and ever; he will be our guide even to the end.” Great! That’s it – I’m gonna make it! I told my wife Becky this, and she looked it up in her version (The New King James Version). It reads, ‘he will be our guide even to death!’ Great! Am I gonna make it or am I going to die? I think I’ll take my version.

As I told my wife goodbye four days ago at Springer Mountain and headed off into the woods with a full backpack, it reminded me of James Earl Jones in the movie Field of Dreams, when he heads off into the cornfield and disappeared into heaven or wherever it was he was going. I was leaving on a real adventure, not knowing about what I would encounter in the days to come. The weather was beautiful that day and the trail awesome. I’ve been in many forests in Oklahoma, Arkansas, Missouri, and Colorado. This Appalachian Forest is so dense, with trees over 200′ high and thick underbrush. I love the Rockies, but after just the first day the Appalachians have a beauty that is just awe-inspiring.

The emotion that I felt most that first day was gratitude. Gratitude for the opportunity to do something like this, for being able to do it physically (I hope), for the many people who are supporting me and even praying for my journey. I’m grateful we live in such a country as beautiful as we have, with so much to see and do, and with the freedom to do so. I’m grateful for my family allowing me to take this journey. I’m grateful for a God who created such magnificent mountains, forests, and landscapes which I will be living in for the next four months.

I’ve had my schedule planner for months and was looking forward to my first night at Gooch Gap Shelter, about 15.6 miles up the trail. As I pulled in at 5:30 tired and hungry there it was – Gooch Gap Shelter wall to wall with Boy Scouts, leaders, packs, sleeping bags, and no room for a tired thru-hiker. Thru-hikers are supposed to have the priority in using the shelters which are scattered about every 7-10 miles. They weren’t moving. So, I strung up my Henley Hammock between two trees for my first night.

Didn’t get too much good sleep that night, but hit the trail on day two heading to Mountain Crossings about 16.5 miles or so up the trail. I worked har to get ready for the trail, but nothing you can do will prepare you for the AT. All of the books I read were right – the AT goes up, then down, then up again. Probably less than 5% of the trail so far has less than a 3% grade. When you actually do find a level stretch, it almost feels weird. The Constructors of the AT I’ve read did not have much sympathy for hikers and in fact seem to have made it tougher than it should just to abuse them. I’ve also seldom seen the sun or the sky, as you are walking in a green tunnel of trees. Although I’m generally heading north and northeast on the trail and don’t have a clue where I am going. You can’t see the sun, and the trail zigs, zags, and then zigs some more. This is not the River Trail in Tulsa!

Just before dropping down to my second overnight stop, the AT takes you to the top of Blood Mountain. It was stunning with huge rock outcroppings, laced with colorful Rhododentrum, Azaleas, and other shrubs. It was like a garden, but planted by God. Many similar flowering shrubs and in fact much of the undergrowth I’ve seen is similar to what people pay big bucks for at the local nurseries like Southwood or Under the Sun.

At Mountain Crossings, one service they provide is to go through your pack to eliminate unnecessary stuff and weight. I had my pack at about 35 lbs. and felt pretty proud of that. But Alpine, a retired Army Ranger and a thru-hiker with thousands of hours on the AT, assured me he could get it down to 28 lbs or so. The next morning we unpacked everything and laid it all out. After eliminating various parts, clothing, gear, etc. Alpine eliminated seven pounds of stuff! With backpacking, especially long-distance and intensive hiking like I’m doing, it’s a matter of food, water, clothing, and shelter. It’s pure survival. With his military and AT background, Alpine had it down to a science. If it’s not needed or it weighs you down, don’t take it. Successful backpacking is a lot like life. We often load up our ‘backpack’ with stuff we don’t really need and it just weighs us down. When we eliminate it the load is just so much easier to carry. Just like my pack was on the third day as I made my way up to Blue Mountain Shelter 18 miles away.

I felt a little tired and my feet were hurting, but the lighter pack made it easier on the third day. It started to rain some that day, but nothing too heavy. As I pulled into the shelter around 6:30, the shelter was full once again… Another night of hammock camping. Being a holiday weekend, there were a lot of weekend and day hikers so I saw quite a few people.

As soon as I turned in, it started to rain… and rain… and rain… Pretty much the whole night and until noon the next day we had drenching rains. That made it tough to break camp and walk in. The trail turned into a stream, I was soaked, and hiking became difficult on wet rocks and soaked feet.

I did have my first dose of Trail Magic that day. Dan and his son from Franklin, NC were temporary hiking buddies that third day and they stayed at the shelter. They were heading out early the next day down 2.2 miles to their car on their way home. They were driving right through Hiawasse, so after hiking down with them I left my pack with them to drop off at the Holiday Inn, while I slack packed with just my lunch, water, and my rain jacket which I used frequently that day. Hiking the final 16 miles was much easier without my backpack even though it was lighter now. It was a rough day with 18 miles of hiking AND a mile and a half of elevation gain and loss with several steep climbs.

I actually made it to my shuttle pickup over an hour early thank to the slack packing opportunity. I finally got phone reception on my iPhone about 3 miles from the road as I left a message with my wife that a bear was attacking me. Ten minutes or so later I heard a duck quacking. I thought that was weird – why would a duck be in the middle of the Georgia forest? It was coming from the sky, which I could not see for all the trees. Five minutes later, I heard the dang duck again. ‘Wait a minute, that’s my phone ringing you dummy!’. My daughter was calling me, which has a duck quack for the phone ring. I have not had coverage at all for the entire trail, so I was not expecting to receive a phone call. I was getting a little delirious and I was soaking wet, my feet were killing me, and I was ready for the Holiday Inn!

So after four days, I’m on schedule and doing fine. This trail is tough. I knew it would be because of all the reading I’ve done. But it’s unlike anything else – until you actually walk in these shoes you don’t really understand. I understand now even more how difficult this will be and when I finish how significant it will be for me and for many others. I’m one of the last thru-hikers to leave Georgia going north. I’ve passed 3 already that I know of and probably more. Two guys half my age are calling it quits already as one of them got injured. The other one took 5 days to get where I took 3 to get. At the pace I’m trying to keep, Apline has told me that I”ll pass over 100 thru-hikers in addition to the thousands that have quit before I reach them.

I will need a bunch of Trail Magic to pull this off! That’s what drives me – the fact that I’m doing this for others – to show compassion to some people who need it in the Tulsa area. I’m thankful for the opportunity to take this journey. Join me, by following my journal as I walk along the way and support up with a generous donation to one of our special charities,

Brad

Posted in Appalachian Trail | 10 Comments »

Its Game Time!

Tuesday, May 25th, 2010

After nine months, and over 1,000 hours of reading, learning, planning, talking with people, and physical preparation, it’s here!   I’m as ready as I can be, and totally focused on the Appalachian Trail.

Last summer, when I was working through the decision to do this, one of the many questions I asked myself was, What would my customers think of this?   Would they think I was leaving my responsibilities to them so I can hike the trail?  Would they feel short-changed if I wasn’t around to deal with any lawn issues?  

I’ve worked through these questions.  I can assure you that if you are a LawnAmerica customer, you and your lawn are in good hands with our staff at LawnAmerica.  As the owner, my job is very busy from mid-fall though the spring, with planning, hiring, budgeting, training, learning, and all the other owner and CEO responsibilities.  Once summer hits, it’s a matter of execution, with everyone doing their job well. 

I only hire good, smart, honest, hard-working people.  We train and educate them well.  I pay and reward them very well, in part by how they take care of and service our customers.  If I’ve done my job well, during the summer, our business should run just fine without my direct presence.  LawnAmerica is successful because we believe and operate based upon certain proven values, which exist with or without my direct presence.  So, our customers will be just fine.

In fact, we’ve heard nothing but good words and encouragement from our customers about this journey I’m taking, with many customers donating money to our cause. Almost everyone I’ve spoken to about this has been encouraging to me with their thoughts and remarks.  For that I am very thankful. 

I’m taking a risk in doing this, as the vast majority of people who set out on an attempt to hike the entire 2,175 miles of the Appalachian Trail do not make it during one season.   There are a lot of things that could happen, some beyond my control, that would cause me to get off the AT for a few weeks, months, or even totally for this year.  To name a few:

  • I could drink bad water and get sick.
  • I could fall (5 million steps to complete the AT) and break a leg, injure myself, my body could just not stand up to the constant pounding.
  • I could get struck by lightning, get bogged down with torrential rains, get heat stroke, hypothermia, and other weather related hazards.
  • I could get a rattlesnake bite, attacked by a bear or a moose, or a tick bite leading to Lyme Disease.
  • Unexpected work responsibilities at work could crop up, causing me to come home.
  • Unexpected home and family responsibilities could crop up, causing me to come home.
  • I could just get homesick, or bored, or just physically worn out.

I’ve prepared and worked hard with the intent of finishing this thru-hike by October 1st—about 4 months.  Most people take 5-6 months to complete the AT, but I don’t have that much time.  And most people are younger than my 56 years of age.  I’ll have to be moving quick—about 18.5 miles per day in order to be at Mt. Katahdin in Maine by October 1st.  I’ve got a detailed plan and schedule, and things are going to have to go pretty much by schedule for this to work.

My mindset is that I’m going to make it to the end.  Things happen though, so I will be ready to make adjustments if needed.  That’s a lot of what life is about—making adjustments to unexpected stuff that crops up.  My motivation for doing this is great, as I’ve told too many people about it to fail!  But the bottom line for me, is what we are doing for our five charities, which are:

  • The Little Lighthouse
  • The Salvation Army
  • Tulsa Rogers Young Life
  • Habitat for Humanity
  • Folds of Honor

All of these non-profit organizations do a great job of serving the needs of Tulsa area kids and families who need some help the most—of showing compassion.  This walk is not about me, it’s about showing some compassion to folks in our community who need it.  The needs are greater than ever in this day we live in.  It’s not a time to hunker down and be defensive; it’s a time to act, to do something, to show a little compassion.  That’s what this journey is about.

For me, this is a God-inspired passion to do this.  I’ll be realizing a dream and having a real adventure in the process also.  I know that walking 2,175 miles, with a 35 lb backpack on, up and down mountains, through all types of weather, eating the same boring food every day (mmmmmm instant oatmeal and granola for breakfast again!), going days with a shower, and sleeping on the hard ground next to strangers, etc. doesn’t sound real invigorating to most, but I’ll be having a ball!

Join me, by following my journey on my blog at www.AT2010Tulsa.com.  I’ll be writing about the characters, situations, and challenges I meet with along the Appalchian Trail, along with pictures and video of some amazing landscapes of America.  And if you feel so led to do so, you can donate to one or several of our charities we are supporting on-line. 

I consider myself very fortunate and blessed to be able to do this.  I’m thankful for all the many people in my life, my family and friends, our vendors, our sponsors, our team members, and for our customers who all make it possible for LawnAmerica to exist and thrive.  Giving back to the community is part of what we do, and we’re thankful for the opportunity to do so.  I’ll do everything possible on my part to make this AT Compassionate Journey a success, and a blessing for many folks. 

Giving my 1st re-supply package of yummy food to the UPS guy. It has to be in Hiawasse before I get there!

I’ll be flying to Atlanta, driving up to the base of Springer Mountain about 60 miles north of Atlanta, and setting foot on the AT on May 28th.  I’m excited, anxious, and sad all at the same time.  I’ve sent my first re-supply package to Hiawasse, Georgia allready, to make sure it’s there on May 30th in plenty of time to get there before I do.  While confident, I’m still a realist and know that I could fail to finish.  I know that unforeseen things can happen, and often do.  And I’m sad to be leaving my family, friends, co-workers, even the dog.   I’ve never been away four months at one time, so I know it will be hard.  It will all be worth it though if I’m standing on top of Mt. Katahdin on October 1st, with our $100,000 goal surpassed, along with lives influenced by our AT2010 Compassionate Journey.

The next post will be from somewhere in the mountains of northern Georgia.  I’ll be tired and beat up by the trail, so don’t expect much from me then!  Give me a few weeks to get my “trail legs” going, and I’ll be a much happier camper at that point.   I still don’t have my trail name, so I trust that something will happen or someone will annoint me with the prefect trail name within the first few weeks.  I just hope it’s not “Eaten by Bear”. 

Happy Trails!

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Posted in AT2010, Appalachian Trail, Charity, Pre-hike Planning, Tulsa Charity | 9 Comments »

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